How to Work With Spot Glazing Compound for Auto Bodywork

Spot Glazing Compound is an important part of the body work process if you want your new paint to lay flat and be flawless.
This process is for filling in pin holes, scratches and small dings. Using this product correctly will help insure that smooth glass like finish!

Instructions

1

Use the 120 grit sandpaper wrapped over your sanding block and sand over the area to be worked on. Sand at least 1 or 2 inches around the damage. This step is meant to remove the outer layers of paint, with your goal being to get below or level with the damaged area, leaving no rough edges around the damage. If you have a hard time getting below the surface with the 120 grit you may use some 60 grit paper, but I would suggest doing a very small section by hand only, since this heavier grit can take you down to bare metal rather quickly. Wear your paper face mask while sanding. Wipe the dust off with your clean dry cloth.

2

If you are working within a specific area and don't want any spray primer to mist over to other areas of the car, tape off the area and place some brown paper under the edges to cover the areas you want to protect.
Spray 2 to 3 light coats of primer over the work area. Don't want to spray up to the tape line though, since this will leave a buildup of primer you will have to sand flat when you remove the tape.

3

After the primer is dry, you are ready to use the Spot Putty Glaze.
Before opening the tube you should knead it by squeezing the tube around from all sides. Squeeze the watery part that usually comes out first, onto your old rag.
Now squeeze a small amount of compound onto the edge of your clean putty knife and apply it over the pin hole, scratch or ding. This compound is meant to be used in layers if you are building up more than about 1/16 inch, and is not meant for deeper gashes, scratches or dents.
The object is to fill in the damaged area, leaving minimal rough edges or high spots of glaze as you feather out the glaze around the repair area.
The glaze will begin to dry quickly and you won't have more than 1 minute or so to work with it once it is applied. It will begin to cake up and you will have to wait till it dries, sand the area smooth and start over again with primer and new glaze. Always wipe the surface of your putty knife clean with your dirty rag before applying more glaze.

4

Once the glaze dries -- anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the temperature and humidity level -- sand the compound level with either the 220 grit or the 320 grit sandpaper. The heavier 220 grit is best to sand the high spots or edges of the glaze down, and 320 grit is best for smoothing it out flush to the rest of the car. Use a light hand here and use the sanding block to sand evenly against the surface. Run your fingers over your work now and then to check for smoothness around the edges.

5

Time now to re-spray over the glazed area with primer, which also helps to fill in very tiny holes and will also allow you to see more clearly if you filled in the damaged area completely and if your work is smooth. If you are not satisfied, or are building up an area such as a ding, just repeat the process again with more glaze, sanding and primer until the area is smooth. Some areas may require a few applications to make perfect.

6

Your final step will be a final coat or two of primer. This area should now be ready for a fine finish sanding and new paint.